FEATURES – January 2009

A Delicious List

We dish up the 2008 Hampton Roads Magazine Platinum Plate Awards to honor a year of fabulous eating at outstanding regional restaurants.

By Patrick Evans-Hylton

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Food is much more than substance for the body; it is a vehicle in which a diner can be transported to another time or place. In good times, it has a celebratory function. At unexpected times, it can be a time machine, transporting us back to a particular flavor or aroma of a favored dish from childhood or other special period in our life. In bad times, it can be an escape for what is bothering us.

Right now, during tight financial times, America needs restaurants for that escapism. We might not be dining out as much, or we might be clipping coupons or looking for early-bird specials. We might not order an appetizer, or forego dessert. Maybe a glass of wine is ordered instead of a bottle.

But the power of dining out brings normalcy and, between soup and nuts, gives us something that Hollywood did for the public during the Great Depression—a chance to forget our troubles for a couple of hours. It also allows us to spend time with something far more important than the bank account—our family and friends. Indeed, dining out is an investment rather than an expense. 

Because your resources—namely time and money—are precious, this is an especially important Platinum Plate Awards for us. For five years, we've been telling you about our favorite places to dine in Hampton Roads, and to that degree, the awards have not changed. But because many of you are not dining out as frequently, or hoping to find just the right place for a special occasion to get the most bang for the buck, we hope our suggestions will be of use to you, not only in the entertainment realm, but in the practical as well.

Another appeal to continue to dine out is also financially based; it is good for the economy. According to the National Restaurant Association, there were 13,114 eating-and-drinking places in Virginia, and in 2008, Virginia's restaurants registered some $11.2 billion in sales. Statewide, there are 250,600 restaurant employees eagerly waiting to serve you your next meal.

We hope our Platinum Plate Awards list will inspire you to dine out soon.

The Top 10 Platinum Plates

Rank—1
Score—97.1672
Terrapin
Pinewood Square
3102 Holly Rd., Virginia Beach
757-321-6688
www.terrapinvirginiabeach.com

Open since 2006, chef/owner Rodney Einhorn has pleased foodies in Hampton Roads with his creative, classic-but-modern offerings utilizing fresh, in-season ingredients and local foodstuffs. The smallish dining room is well appointed in soothing green hues, exotic woods and lush textures.

Critics' comments: "Rodney is just so darn creative." "A great addition to the Beach restaurant scene." "Chef Rodney Einhorn's passion is Terrapin's secret ingredient." "Pan-seared Hudson Valley foie gras so good we (guiltily) admit it makes us forget our conscience as we consume it." "A jewel-box of a dining room perfect for showcasing the creative, delicious menu from Rodney." "Absolutely Big City—the type of restaurant you would hope to find traveling to a large metropolis." "I love the patio for dining outside under the stars on warm evening."

Rank—2
Score—96.9197
Stove – The Restaurant
2622 Detroit St., Portsmouth
757-397-0900

We have long loved the creativity that comes from Chef Sydney Meers' kitchens, whether his original Dumbwaiter or his current offering, Stove. Meers is in his element in this quaint and quirky eatery, surrounded by color and decors as vibrant and bold as his neo-Southern cuisine.

Critics' comments: "The selections at Sydney Meers' unique restaurant transcend mere words and deserve their own vocabulary." "It's a quirky place with a quirky chef/owner in a most unexpected locale. Everything here, from the décor to the menu to the general vibe, lets owners know that Sydney is having a blast cooking in Port Norfolk." "I love the use of Virginia products and the awesome selection of cheeses." "Sydney Meers is one of the area's most creative chefs and is also an accomplished baker." "His breads are world class, and his desserts are so good they are dangerous."

Rank—3
Score—95.7995
Zoes
713 19th St., Virginia Beach
757-437-3636
www.zoesvb.com

A flurry of fusion flavors is served up in this charming restaurant. Chef/owner Jerry Weihbrecht studied in Hawaii under Chef Roy Yamaguchi (of Roy's fame,) and the Pacific Rim influence is evident in many offerings of the seasonal menu, complemented by a selection of perfectly prepared steaks.

Critics' comments: "Every meal that I have had has a ‘wow' factor." "Food with real sex appeal." "The sexiest restaurant in south Hampton Roads; the jewel-toned décor, with its upholstered walls and high-backed velvet banquettes, is the perfect setting for a tete-a-tete." "Presentation here is always stunning." "Chef Jerry Weihbrecht's blue crab macaroni and cheese is in itself worth a visit." "An interesting array of dishes makes dining at Zoes a joy." "Zoes is my first choice for four-star cuisine."

Rank—4
Score—95.6062
Eurasia Café
960 Laskin Rd., Virginia Beach
757-422-0184
www.eurasiavb.com

A tidy dining room in muted hues is the backdrop for simple, perfectly prepared fusion cuisine from Chef Meredith Adams. Regional favorites pair with Asian flavors in many dishes, while others are straight-forward contemporary, seasonal and delicious. A tasty dose of Adams' Southern upbringing is also apparent.

Critics' comments: "Meredith Adams consistently presents smart cuisine, well-sourced (often from regional farms), well-executed and much of it as good for you as it is good to eat." "Spicy bigeye tuna tartini with mango, cucumber and avocado, grilled romaine Caesar with parmesan pastry puff or twisty Off the Hook Rockafella (fried oysters, creamed spinach, bacon, stravecchio and mashers) are just a few reasons to give your GPS this address." "A wonderful venue for the creative creations from Meredith—intimate, hip and relaxed."

Rank—5—TIE
Score—94.8723
Café Europa
319 High St., Portsmouth
757-399-6652

A longtime romantic rendezvous for lovers and lovers of classic Continental cuisine, Café Europa is set in an intimate, romantic venue with linen-laden tables and flickering candlelight—a wonderful accompaniment to chef/owner Michael Simka's dishes, which have an emphasis on Eastern European, French and Italian flavors

Critics' comments: "The waitstaff is great; they make me feel like a diva." "My favorite restaurant in the area; décor, service, inventive food—they've got it all." "The décor is intimate and warm and the restaurant owners have respected the original architecture; it's like a step back in time." "The shrimp and Pernod sauce is a dish worth lingering over, and it's hard to not return to the mozzarella appetizer again and again." "Elegant without being stuffy." "A longtime favorite of mine; a real asset to Portsmouth and all of Hampton Roads."

Rank—5—TIE
Score—94.8723
Eat – An American Bistro
4005 Atlantic Ave., Virginia Beach
757-965-2472
www.eatbistro.com

Chef/owner Erick Heilig offers contemporary fare using local ingredients artfully prepared and creatively presented. A well-compiled menu complements a bevy of nightly blackboard specials, also offering his regional/seasonal dishes. A small, curvy and hip dining room also satisfies.

Critics' comments: "A great North End restaurant." "Compact and full of great energy." "My favorite, most creative chalkboard specials in all of Hampton Roads, be they sliders last summer or sweetbreads so good I'll savor forever." "The veggie lasagna is visually stunning—before it's devoured." "So tragically hip." "A platform for showing off some of our region's finest foods in all their glory." "Chef Erick's blackboards specials are legendary—or should be. Look there first before glancing at the menu."

Rank—6
Score—94.3752
Fat Canary
Merchant's Square
410 Duke of Gloucester St., Williamsburg
757-229-3333

Upscale bistro fare crafted from incredibly fresh ingredients and presented beautifully are the hallmarks of chef/owner Tom Power Jr. Thrilling palates since 2003, Fat Canary is equally delicious in its small, simple dining room beautifully designed to be comfortable and upscale at the same time.

Critics' comments: "I love this place; the cheese sandwich brings the ooey, gooey goodness that makes me want to scream with delight." "Chef Tom Power is a perfectionist, and we patrons are the beneficiaries of his fastidiousness." "The family connection to excellent cheeses is a bonus." "Asian barbecue duck confit with spicy Carolina shrimp sums up the exceptionally talented Tom Power Jr.: a courtly Southern chef with an exquisite Asian affinity." "If we could send but one area restaurant to the Big League culinary championships, this would be it."

Rank—7—TIE
Score—92.0347
Vintage Tavern
1900 Governors Pointe Dr., Suffolk
757-238-8808
www.vintagetavernvirginia.com

This charming tavern lives up to its self-imposed title of "seasonally Southern." Chef/owner Sam McGann offers sophisticated interpretations of rustic regional classics in a well-appointed setting featuring stone walls, exposed ceiling beams, hardwood floors and spectacular wooded views.

Critics' comments: "The feeling when you walk into Vintage Tavern is one of wonder; all my culinary dreams come true one bite at a time." "A gorgeous oasis in Suffolk, particularly charming in warm weather when you can take cocktails out on the expansive stone terrace." "I like what Sam McGann is doing with traditional food, giving it extra oomph." "The fact that this is simultaneously a curator of Southern foodways and a cutting-edge culinary experience makes Vintage Tavern perhaps the most important restaurant in our midst."

Rank—7—TIE
Score—92.0347
Luna Maya
2000 Colonial Ave. # 7, Norfolk
757-622-6986

Warm, wonderful, spicy and sublime Central and South American flavors are served up from Bolivian sisters Karla and Vivian Montano in their equally saucily decorated Ghent restaurant, Luna Maya. Vibrant orange-hued walls are accented with other warm colors—a perfect setting for the earthy, pure dishes.

Critics' comments: "I love Luna Maya for being a trendsetter in our region." "When I first dined there ... it was the first time that I had Mexican food that wasn't gloppy beans and cheese; an epiphany of sorts." "The owners are friendly and gladly share their knowledge of their native Bolivia and its cuisine." "A fun place to dine with unique dishes that have become local classics, like the guacamole made-to-order and a rum cake that even those who don't like rum will love." "This moon—with its guacamole so good it could drive you gaga, marvelous margaritas and cinnamon-kissed tamales—never wanes."

Rank—8
Score—91.9896
The Trellis
Merchant's Square
403 Duke of Gloucester St., Williamsburg
757-229-8610
www.thetrellis.com

A culinary star in Hampton Roads continues to shine after years of offering contemporary cuisine from seasonally changing menus. The venue is open and comfortable, decidedly upscale, but intentionally unpretentious. An excellent wine list complements the fare, as does the signature Death by Chocolate dessert.

Critics' comments: "I have tried to make ‘Death by Chocolate' so many times, but it is pure magic when ordered at The Trellis ... I love all 1,354 calories of it." "It's cool to have this culinary landmark in our own backyard." "Consistently a winner—a must-go place for classic, elegant dining for locals and a must-take place to wow out-of-towners." "The seasonally changing menu is a true delight, showcasing area produce and products in classically prepared but very approachable methods." "One of Virginia's first cheerleaders for the state's wine industry—cheers to you, Trellis."

Rank—9
Score—91.7455
Vintage Kitchen
Inside the Dominion Tower
999 Waterside Dr., Norfolk
757-625-3370
www.vintage-kitchen.com

From chef/owner Phillip Craig Thomason's Vintage Kitchen restaurant comes incredibly prepared fresh and seasonal contemporary interpretations of classic culinary offerings. Vintage Kitchen is open, bright and city-sleek, with plates of equally approachable food from this Le Cordon Bleu, Paris-trained chef.

Critics' comments: "People who don't work downtown might have no notion that this exquisite little restaurant is humming right along in the ground floor of the Dominion Tower, but it's worth the visit." "A great place to explore the culinary breadth of Virginia, as Phillip goes to great lengths to serve products from the commonwealth, from cheeses to bread to beef." "The Black and White Mac and Cheese with truffle, nutmeg and Marshall Farms cheddar, paired with Blandy's 10 year Malmsey Madeira is a more gorgeous coupling than Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie."

Rank—10
Score—90.1846
Coastal Grill
1427 N. Great Neck Rd., Virginia Beach
757-496-3348
www.coastalgrill.com

Since 1989, freshly-caught seafood has been served up simply and wonderfully prepared at Coastal Grill. Set in a well-appointed, unpretentious venue, a succinct menu is augmented by an extensive blackboard list of fresh catch and other nightly specials. Owner Jerry Bryan knows the formula for success, and we are the better for it.

Critics' comments: "The soft shell crabs are amazing." "Coastal Grill put the Great Neck Corridor on the map for a place to come for great culinary experiences." "A great little restaurant with true staying power." "The most consistent and consistently good restaurant in the area." "The steamed mussels alone would be reason to come here, but why pass up the wilted bibb salad with warm, sweet vinegar-bacon dressing, grilled leg of lam, fried oysters—or, above all, the scrumptious fresh fish deemed worthy of the day's chalkboard."

Editor’s Note:

We were saddened to hear about the closing of two of our favorite Hampton Roads restaurants—Bobbywood in Norfolk and Comfort in Portsmouth; the eateries closed in late 2008, citing economic reasons as the cause of their demise.

Both offered delicious, fresh, seasonal cuisine under the culinary mastery of their chef/owners, Bobby Huber of Bobbywood and Jason Alley of Comfort. Both restaurants would have, undoubtedly, been among our recommendations of outstanding restaurants to try in our region.

We wish Chef Huber and Chef Alley the best and hope to again enjoy their tasty creations in Hampton Roads.

For a complete listing of our 2008 Platinum Plates from A-Z, pick up the current January issue where magazines are sold.

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