March/April 2006

Emerald Isle Eats

The flavors of Ireland can be found across Hampton Roads—and we’re not just talking potatoes.

By Patrick Evans-Hylton

Quick—what is your favorite Irish food? No, green beer doesn’t count.

Throughout the years, Emerald Isle cuisine has gotten a bad rap. It’s often associated with boiled, bland food accented with potatoes, potatoes and more potatoes. But Irish gastronomy is, in fact, a sophisticated offering of fresh seafood (it is an island surrounded by water, after all) lamb, pork, a variety of vegetables and fresh herbs.

In fact, there is sort-of a food renaissance happening in Ireland and across the British Isles, with rock-staresque chefs making bold statements with their dishes. And, although many traditional Irish foods are still prevalent, they are, as Emeril would say, kicked up a notch.

In fact, a new phenomenon across the pond are gastropubs, a term coined in 1991 to describe pubs (a British term short for public house) where an emphasis is placed on the quality of food, but it’s still served up in the relaxing, friendly atmosphere of a tavern.

Gastropub menus include salmon, oysters, cockles, handcrafted cheeses, rich butter and yes, the occasional potato—but it will more likely be adapted with leeks to create a sinfully decadent soup.

The trend of good pub grub has made its way to Hampton Roads, too, according to chefs at two area Irish pubs.

“We focus on the food,” says Alisa James, chef/owner of The Blarney Stone Pub in Onancock on the Eastern Shore. A graduate of the New England Culinary Institute, James has worked in restaurants from Boston to Las Vegas.

“I think we have quite a bit in common here with Ireland, being surrounded by water,” she says. “They have a focus on seafood and fresh-grown ingredients, something we do too.”

David Maglicco, executive chef at Conklin’s Irish Rover in Virginia Beach, echoed those thoughts. Maglicco formerly cooked at Cabo Café.

“You think of nothing but potatoes and cabbage with Irish food, but that’s not the case,” he says. “It is about fresh ingredients, and being innovative with them. There is a lot of improvisation in Irish cuisine, using what is available.”

Both James and Maglicco use those concepts but put their own twists on things: hand-breaded cod filets served with waffle fries stands in for the classic fish-and-chips at Blarney Stone. A minced meat pastie at Conklin’s is finished with a gravy made with Jameson’s Irish whiskey.

The menus resonate the classic flavors of Ireland, like the traditional shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash from James, and an Irish mixed grill with pork chop, bacon, sausage, tomatoes and fried potatoes from Maglicco.

“When the Irish immigrants came to this country after leaving Ireland due to the Potato Famine, they had to adapt with American ingredients to make the foods they were accustom to in their homeland,” Maglicco says. “That’s what we do too: this is Irish cuisine, but with our take on it.”

The flavors of Ireland are found at several locations across Hampton Roads; there are pubs from the Shore to Williamsburg serving up bangers with a side of bubble and squeak, along with a good Guinness to wash it all down.

As the traditional Irish blessing goes: “May the sound of happy music and the lilt of Irish laughter fill your heart with gladness that stays forever after.” We might add: May the flavors of Eire stay in Hampton Roads for a good long time, too.

For the rest of this story, including Irish recipes and restaurants, see the March/April 2006 issue of Hampton Roads Magazine, currently available on newsstands.